Knitting Technology │ Development of warp-knitted spacer upper material

Knitting Technology: Lightweight and thin polyester imitation cotton filament woven fabric quality control method

The text is charged for 5 minutes a day and can be learned for 2 hours!

The surface of the warp-knitted spacer fabric can form a rich pattern, and the Piezo Jacquard system controls the jacquard needle to shift or not shift according to the pattern information, thereby realizing the jacquard effect. The upper spacer material design, the need to design different tissue according to different functional areas of jacquard warp shoe; Meanwhile, according to different groups of take different set pattern.

Jacquard warp knitting plain upper spacer produced on the material with a Piezo jacquard bars of warp knitting machine, which equipment comprises a model import RDPJ4 / 1, RDPJ5 / 1, RDPJ7 / 1, domestic models GE2296, ZMY7 / 1 and so on.

The plain color warp-knitted jacquard spacer fabric mainly realizes the jacquard effect through the structural effect, and forms a mesh structure , a thin tissue and a thick structure with different sizes on the surface of the fabric , and has a well-defined structure and rich patterns. However, this method has certain limitations. Since the patterns formed by such products are realized by the structural effect, the color is single and the appearance is insufficient.

Two-color Jacquard-knitted jacquard spacer fabrics are produced on a modified Raschel double needle bed warp knitting machine with two Jaka combs . The double-jaka comb can form a two-color (multi-color) effect on the surface of the fabric to form a pattern with clear color, and the two-color jacquard effect can be divided into the following types .

a wrapping effect: e.g. N ike mark may effect two-color jacquard, design for wrapping its trademark, logo so that it protrudes, and more stereoscopic fashion.

b. Chroma effect: that is, different parts of the pattern adopt different color jacquards. For example, when the jacquard surface is a flower pattern, the flower part adopts red yarn, and the flower leaf adopts green yarn, so that the flower designed is more imaged. Realistic .

c. Color mixing effect: that is, the jacquard of a certain area is not realized by one color yarn, but is realized by regularly matching two or more colors, and thus is distinguished from other areas.

The upper material may be a spun yarn such as cotton or polyester cotton, or a filament yarn such as polyester or nylon. In order to improve the comfort of the shoes, the surface of the fabric is woven with natural fibers, and the other side is made of chemical fiber . The Jacquard comb can be woven with a finer yarn to obtain an embossed three-dimensional jacquard effect. Generally, nylon and polyester monofilaments are used as the spacer layer yarn, and the filament is used as the surface layer yarn, so that the woven fabric has both flexibility and elasticity, and has excellent stability , and is an ideal upper material .

The front side of the warp-knitted spacer fabric is a jacquard effect surface, which is woven by the back needle bed of a double needle bed warp knitting machine. The Jacquard comb is generally woven by the three-needle technique of the circled Jacquard, and the basic tissue pad is woven. The yarn number is 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0// , the ground comb is made by the chaining movement 0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0// , the Jacquard needle is biased Under the control of the movement information, the thick tissue, the thin tissue and the mesh structure are knitted together with the ground comb to form the jacquard effect surface of the fabric; the reverse side of the fabric is the front needle bed weave surface, generally adopting a flat dense structure or a mesh structure , and the flat solid structure It is formed by a weave, mesh structure composed of chain knitting weft insertion or change plus binding tricot satin, or air through air through binding form.

The spacer layer can be divided into a shape of a 1- shaped shape, a V- shaped shape, an X- shaped shape, a 1 + 1 shape, and the like according to the direction of the extension line . The V shape usually adopts a combination of three needles, a flat chain or a five needles, and the basic organization is 2-1-1-0/1-2-2-3// , 3-2-1- 0/2-3-4-5// ; 1 + 1 basic structure is 0-1-0-1/2-3-2-3// , 0-1-0-1/3-4-3 -4// etc.

a. Pattern size : According to the design requirements of the shoe material , the flower height mainly depends on the length of the finished shoe material and the pulling density of the fabric. At the same time, the influencing factors such as the weaving rate, dyeing and shrinkage rate should be considered, and the flower width is determined by the shoe. The circumference of the cockroach is determined.

b. Pattern : The pattern on the upper should conform to the design theme, and design according to the specific requirements of each part of the shoe, reflecting the style and characteristics of different functional areas, meeting the dual requirements of functionality and aesthetics.

c. Overall pattern of the fabric: When designing the overall pattern of the fabric, it is necessary to fully consider the utilization rate of the raw materials, and try to find out the method of saving materials. For example, the design pattern must be a complete cycle, which can reflect the shape of the entire upper. The toe and heel are staggered and designed.

Jacquard warp upper spacer material finishing step including: predetermined-shaped dry → → → dyeing given complex shape.

The dyeing process of warp-knitted interval upper material is: select the appropriate dye and dyeing temperature according to the type of yarn; control the take-up tension when the fabric is wound onto the dyed warp beam, and the tension should not be too small to ensure fabric winding Smooth, the tension should not be too large, to avoid excessive compression of the spacer layer of the fabric; according to the design requirements of the upper, select the corresponding dye color. Finally, the final size of the upper spacer Jacquard warp material by a tenter predetermined shape.

Take the plain color warp jacquard spacer upper material as an example, select the model RDPJ5/1 , machine number 25 needle /25.4 mm , machine speed 300   r/min , grid-like stripping plate spacer 3.5   Mm , tensile density 12 courses/cm, fabric gram mass 263 g /m ² . GB1 , GB2 , JB4.1 , JB4.2 , GB5 wear 8.3 tex/72 f polyester DTY , GB3 wear 3.3 tex polyester monofilament, other process parameters are as follows:

GB1 : 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1// , full wear, delivery volume 1800   Mm / r ack ;

GB2 : 1-2-1-1/1-0-1-1// , full wear, delivery volume 1800mm / r ack ;

GB3 : 2-1-1-0/1-2-3-4// , full wear, delivery volume 6000mm/ r ack ;

JB4.1 : 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0// , 1 wear 1 empty, the amount of 1900mm/ r ack ;

JB4.2 : 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0// , 1 empty 1 wear, delivery volume 1900mm / r ack ;

GB5 : 0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0// , full wear, delivery volume 1300mm / r ack .

GB1 and GB2 are woven on the surface fabric to make the warp-level movement; JB4 uses the three-needle technology of the circled Jacquard to make the jacquard on the back needle bed, and form the lower layer fabric with GB5 ; GB3 turns the yarn in the front and back of the needle bed into a loop, connecting The upper layer of fabric. The figure of the upper material and the physical map are shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2, respectively.

Figure 1 upper material art map

Figure 2 physical material of the upper material

- promotion -

To purchase this book, please reply "Mobile number + name" in WeChat!